Update: a few years ago the whales left Tromsø, so to see them on a whale safari you now have to travel to Skjervøy. You can do this on your own, but there are also trips heading that way from Tromsø.
In the far north of Norway you can experience something VERY special in winter. You can brave the cold and, armed with a camera, go hunting for whales during a whale safari in Tromsø! On the last day of our fairytale week in Tromsø we decided to brave the icy waters with Polar Charter.
On a whale safari with Jon and the Polargirl
From November through January you can head out every day from the harbor of Tromsø with Jon-Børge Karlsen and the Polargirl (that’s the name of the boat). They take you on an adventure through Norwegian waters to meet one of the most special animals on earth. The boat leaves the harbor in Tromsø every morning at 08:30 and the trip takes 5 to 7 hours, depending on how keen the whales (and orcas!) are to show themselves. Polar Charter provides free coffee, tea and cookies. All you have to do is make sure you’re dressed warmly and that you bring a camera!
In the heart of winter on the frozen deck
Jon welcomed us on his boat while the sun was still down. After a short introduction and some hot coffee and tea, we stepped onto the frozen deck armed with our cameras. The view of the famous bridge was breathtaking. The sun began to rise, and as soon as we left the sheltered harbor, it started snowing REALLY hard. And by REALLY hard, I mean the kind of snow that sends the Dutch railways into total panic mode here in the Netherlands, where I live.
Photography for advanced players
Soon it was snowing hard enough to make it impossible to stand facing the wind with your eyes open. Luckily, Bart-Jan had accidentally brought his ski goggles! That way, at least one of us could take photos. Before we knew it, Jon was waving and gesturing like crazy. The first humpback whale was letting us know it was there. Wow! Jon really knows what he’s doing!
And the whale wasn’t alone. According to our cheerful guide, there were 12(!) humpback whales split into 4 groups. I have to admit that photographing whales is an art of its own. I think we took 600 photos, and only 3 or 4 of them turned out really well. Until one swam right past our boat! Only then could we see how gigantic they actually were. It was as if a submarine came sailing by!
A standing ovation for a special performance
Even though it wasn’t very comfortable to stand on deck in this weather, it was excellent weather for a whale safari. The males love to play in this kind of weather, you see, so we were treated to an impressive dance act. One of the whales repeatedly slapped the water with its tail while another tried to throw its body as far out of the water as it could.
The dance show was accompanied by little shrieks of joy from Jon. This man has been doing this work for 5 years, day in, day out, and still gets as happy as a kid in a toy store every time he sees a whale. I find that enthusiasm and passion heartwarming. It also makes the whole experience a lot more fun. And of course I shrieked right along with him. And I hope nobody saw the tears of happiness welling up in my eyes..
Do you want to join the Polargirl too? Book your own whale safari in Tromsø on the website of Polar Charter!
Personal travel advice
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